All crazy about the Salumeria. Many of my guests ask me where they can go to lunch between hams, salami and cheese hanging on the ceiling. I tell you this: once pane e mortazza (the sandwich with the mortadella) was the fast and cheap meal of the worker who did not have lunch break. Today the Salumeria has become a gourmet place. The owners are millionaires and go around with the Ferrari! Save this five places.
Roscioli ristorante, near Campo de’ Fiori, is also a winery and an oyster bar. They serve salami, hand-cut ham, but also fish dishes. Here if you do not book, you will never sit down! Another place is La Salumeria, near Castel Sant’Angelo. They make the tagliere, a wooden boards with salami, ham, cheeses and more. Do not miss Erzinio, near Piazza Venezia, Volpetti in Campo Marzio and Franchi in Via Cola di Rienzo, near the Vatican city.
I lived in Campo de’ Fiori for four years. It is the typical neighborhood of the old town: small streets with Sampietrini (stone paved), ancient palaces owned by the ecclesiastical nobility, restaurants with outdoor tables set with tovaglie a quadri (checkered tablecloths). But in some cases, it is an artificial reality created just to attract tourists. So be careful to the sòle (cheats!). Every day in Campo de’ Fiori square there is an open air market. You can buy fresh fruit, vegetable and spices. Not clothes (often are fake) or souvenir (too expensive).
If you can say NO! to the buttadentro (promoters) of the square bars and restaurants, I suggest to move nearby for eating and drinking. In five minutes you’ll arrive at Salumeria Roscioli. Ham, salami, mozzarella, but also raw fish and ostiche. Good? Locals love this place. Very close there is the bakery Antico Forno Roscioli. Same surname, same owner. A piece of their hot pizza margherita is always a good idea for a morning or afternoon snack. It fights against the Forno of Campo de’ Fiori for who makes the best pizza in the district. I know who is the winner, but tell me you’re opinion about! Another street fooder is Supplizio. Here you can taste the Supplì, a sicilian rice ball cooked in several ways.
Other sights nearby are Piazza Farnese (with Palazzo Farnese where is hosted the French Ambassy) and the bellissima Via Giulia. Aperitiviamo?! Funny way of locals to say: lets have a drink! Nearby I usually go at Barnum cafè, good cocktails made by a bartender with vintage moustache 🙂
At late night I have a secret to share with you. There is a small and hidden bar nearby, where can enter only people who know the password: The Jerry Thomas Project. I like the atmosphere and the cocktails they serve. Excellent vermouth distilled from themself and nice preparation. It is the only place where, after three Negroni, I’m still shiny! 🙂 Do you want to know the password?!
Read also my tips about Monti, Piazza Navona, Vatican district and Trastevere.
(Photo by Salvatore Dama)